Saturday, December 13, 2008

Finals? Since when do those exist in France?

So a whole bunch has happened since the last time I posted. Namely, lots of snow, and the Fête des Lumières!

The Fête des Lumières (festival of lights) probably deserves its own entry at a later date (when I'm not too lazy to post all the AMAZING pictures!) but it was AWESOME! There were light shows all over the city and little exhibits and things. Super cool.

Also, on Wednesday, a bunch of friends and I went to an Olympique Lyonnais soccer match! It was a big deal because it was the last game of the Champions League and we were hardly ahead of our opponents, Bayern Munich, in the standings. Unfortunately, we lost, but the 2nd half was really exciting because OL almost came back from a 0-3 deficit at the half! The final score was 2-3.

Unfortunately, I decided to do all my finals (except for one) before Christmas break, which means 3 finals and a presentation this week, all before Thursday morning! But it will be really good to get it out of the way, because then I get a weekend to spend with everyone before the Semester students return back to the States and everyone starts to leave for vacation! THEN, I get an entire MONTH off for Christmas!!

Also, it snowed for like 2 days straight up here in my neighborhood, rendering the snow in that last entry pretty pathetic. I would say that there was a good 3 inches! It has stopped now but it's still cold enough that the snow is sticking around.

I had the best day ever on Thursday. It was the last day of my Hollywood cinema class, so we watched It's a Wonderful Life, which got me warm and fuzzy inside...then, my friend Valerie came over and we baked cookies and played in the snow. How pictoresque!

And on that note:

Happy holidays from my pathetic little 10 inch snowman!!

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

It snowed today!!

Ok, so I know that I said it snowed in Lyon, but this time I REALLY MEAN IT! Last time, the snow never hit the ground and it was just little flakes. Today, for like 20 minutes, there were globs of snow falling all over the place!



It was awesome. And FREEZING. Luckily, it's looking to warm up for the weekend, which is good because this weekend is Lyon's annual Fête des Lumières, or Festival of Lights. It's going to be a huge deal! Apparently it's the only time that the snooty Parisiens ever venture out of their city to see another part of France. Haha. For the pretty light shows and public art displays. Also, all public transportation hours around the downtown area are going to be extended, and its just going to be a blaaast! I'm super excited!

Monday, December 1, 2008

Thanksgiving...or a Lack Thereof

Hello all...Hope you all had a good Thanksgiving, and that if you decided to participate in Black Friday, your fate was a little better than the fellow who got trampled in a Walmart on Friday morning...Oh, America. That's one piece of US current events that I don't think I will be sharing with my French friends ;)

Thanksgiving was pretty sad this year since I wasn't home for the meal and for my dad's birthday the next day, but I wasn't the only one in that boat, so it wasn't too bad. I'm at least glad that I'll be spending Christmas with my landlady and her family, so I'm hoping that being with a family will make up for the fact that it's not my own!

So on the actual day of Thanksgiving, I had 5 hours of classes. After class, Robert and I decided that we wanted to make Thanksgiving dinner. Since his roommates already had dinner guests planned, we decided that it would be an American-only affair at my place (with the exception of my roommate Eva). Robert's friend Brian from California, who's in the middle of a 6 month long trip through Europe, came along too. I tried my darndest to make a Thanksgiving meal, but as I've learned time and time again with our attempts at American cuisine (Mexican food, hamburgers, etc) we couldn't expect to find much at my neighborhood French supermarket, Leader Price.

I don't think we did too badly! They obviously didn't have whole turkeys, so I made turkey breasts with bread crumbs (...which I made by toasting bread and crumbling it.) which was kind of like turkey and stuffing...Green beans, rolls, and mashed 'taters!

It was nice, and I think it was fun for Eva too, because while it was all of our first Thanksgivings away from home, it was her first Thanksgiving ever...and she got to practice her English! (Brian doesn't speak French...or German, for that matter, haha)

The next night, we went to Grenoble, a little city in the French Alps an hour south of Lyon. There is another EAP program there as well, with about 20 other University of California students. We went to a restaurant on their campus for "Thanksgiving Dinner". I put this in quotes because, well, although they tried, it was definitely not a normal Thanksgiving meal.

We received a bunch of appetizers that were pretty French...ravioli and mussels, bread, wine, salad, etc...Then came the main dish:

They tried. They really did...they had sweet potatoes, a little bit of cranberry sauce, and pumpkin gratin...But that's not even turkey! haha! Also, as much as I have begun to notice the pejorative nature of this aspect of American culture, Thanksgiving is one time that an overabundance of food is OK. This meager helping...not OK.

However, even if the meal wasn't very Thanksgiving, it was still delicious. And another plus of the dinner:

IT WAS SNOWING IN GRENOBLE!

It's beginning to feel a lot like Christmas...and I mean real, snowy Christmas!

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Weekend in Madrid

So my weekend in Madrid was really fun! It was interesting to be in a country that wasn't English or French speaking for the first time ever (except for my few trips to Mexico). But like I mentioned before, the weather was great and the food was a nice break from bread and cheese!

Thursday
I decided to forgo my classes since I was flying out of Lyon at 4pm and it takes about an hour and a half for me to get from my place to the bus station to the airport. I met Danielle there, who is another friend of Michael, the friend I was visiting in Madrid. Danielle studies in Grenoble, which isn't far from Lyon, and it ended up being that we had a French class together at UCSB.

The flight only took about an hour and a half and we got right onto the Metro with Michael, who met us there. The Metro in Madrid was really impressive, it was maybe even bigger than the Métro in Paris! It took us almost an hour to get to our hostel, which ended up being really nice, and in a really convenient part of downtown Madrid.

That night, we went out for tapas with Michael and he/Danielle's childhood friend Sara, which is my new favorite thing in the world. You buy a little beer/wine and get a plate of appetizers...AMAZING! However, we went to some not so typical Tapas places on Thursday, like a sandwich place that had over 100 little sandwiches on their menu, a Mushroom place where we got a plate of mushrooms rather than tapas, and then we went to a little café to get Chocolate con Churros, which was hot chocolate (aka hot chocolate syrup) that you dip churros in. MMMM! And each place only cost like 2-4€!

pictures of Thursday:
A building in Sol, one of the main squares that was about 5 minutes walking distance from our hostel!This plaque, out in front of the building in the picture before this, signaled the EXACT middle of the country of Spain. if you look closely, you can see that it says 'KM 0'...apparently there are plaques like this on each kilometer point all over Spain, and this one is smack dab in the middle of them all!All the sandwiches at our first stop of the night. They have so many that they need 2 menus!The best mushrooms EVER! They had a bunch of seasonings and (of course) ham in them. Ham is like the number 1 meat of Spain...it's everywhere!Chocolate con churros...mmmmSpain is really big on street performers...But most of them just dress ridiculously and do funny things when you give them money...Like this guy.

Friday
We woke up early to eat breakfast and get started with the Cathedral and Palace. The Catedral de la Almudena
was pretty neat because on the outside, it just looked like another big ol' spanish building...it didn't look like a cathedral at all, but once we got inside it was pretty much your run of the mill gothic cathedral, although it had a lot of tacky spanish paintings and stuff on the inside.

Next was the Palacio Real, the royal palace of Madrid. We had seen on our way there some random processions with Spanish guards and horses and a carriage, but didn't think much of it. But we got to the Palace and realized that the procession we saw was making its way to and from the Palace! So unfortunately the palace wasn't open for viewing, but we did get to see a cool ceremony of different ambassadors being welcomed into the Palace by the guards and all that jazz.

Afterward, we walked through Plaza de España, this little square with a fountain and a little flea market,
then we visited a raaandom little Egyptian temple, Templo de Debod. Afterwards, we found a restaurant and went out to a nice lunch where we ate Paella of course! Next, we walked to a super big park (Parque de el Retiro) and rowed around this little lake...Then walked around the park and came across this giant glass house, as well as a few really pretty gardens.

Later that night, we went out for tapas again. This time we started at one of the most famous tapas bars in Madrid, El Tigre. It was good. 'Nuff said. We found a couple other places to try out, including one place where I tried Black Sausage (or was it Blood sausage..), which is apparently some kind of nasty Spanish thing, but I liked it! All the food was super fried and greasy, I loved it. Haha. We ended up meeting up with a bunch of girls that either Michael or Danielle knew, and went to a bar that we called the Cave Bar, because it looked like a cave...and we all split this huge drink in a fishbowl that was called Leche de Pantera, or Panther's Milk.

The outside of the cathedral...doesn't look much like a cathedral, huh?The inside, with its tacky spanish-ness Outside the Palace with all the guards on horses! There were also guards inside of a car that were dressed in old white wigs, and a carriage that transported the guests. The Palace.. you can see all the guards and the band on the left hand side Random Egyptian temple!

Birds eye view of Madrid
Paella!
Big monument in the Park
Michael and me rowing!
Sweeet glass house

Me in a waterfall!
Gardens at the park
Walking back, we passed City Hall
I found el GAUCHO! The gaucho is UCSB's mascot! :)
our Tapas at El Tigre...that and 3 drinks all for less than 8€!


Chicken and crazy sausage at another tapas placethe "Cave bar"...not its actual name, but it's fitting, no?
Danielle, me and Michael sharing our Panthers Milk

Saturday
On Saturday, Michael's parents arrived from the Bay Area and Danielle is a longtime family friend of theirs, so we hung out with them a bunch. But first, Danielle and I went to the Museo del Prado, which is basically the Spanish/Madrid National Gallery. It was really nice, but pretty much it was the same as every other big gallery of 17th century art that I've been to (Lyon musée des beaux-arts, the louvre, the national gallery of Scotland, etc). It was cool though, and afterward we met up with Mike and his parents and had some Kebabs...one of the only forms of European fast food.

Later we met back up and went to the Reina Sophia, another museum a little more modern. It had a lot of Picasso and Dali, which I really liked. It was also in a huge awesomely designed building!

Then, we went out to tapas with Michael and his parents. We revisited a couple of places that we had been to already, but this time had Mike's mom snapping pictures the whole time, which was funny. Another place we went to quite a few times was the Museo del Jamon, which is the "museum of ham"...it's actually a ham restaurant/tapas bar that was all over Madrid. It is completely covered in legs of ham and its actually kind of gross, but it was a funny place to go.

Michael in the biggest Museo del Jamon

Museo del PradoCourtyard outside the Reina Sophia
OK this place has to be explained. El Corto Ingles is Macy's on steroids. The main department store building (all kinds of clothing, sporting goods, and one story was a toy store) is 8 stories, and has a grocery store on the bottom floor. There are also 2 smaller buildings, one of which is 4 stories of electronics, and the other I'm not sure about because we didn't venture in...but this place is CRAZY!! It was also kind of expensive.
Another sweeet street performer.

Sunday
All we did on Sunday before we had to leave was we wandered around the outskirts of a HUGE Sunday morning flea market. We walked around for about 5-10 minutes and didn't even begin to touch the surface of this thing...I think it went on for at least a kilometer. It was definitely one of those 'hold your backpack in front of you, watch out for pickpockets' kind of places, because there were SO many people!

So Danielle and I headed back to the airport and flew off...Only to be greeted by none other than freezing cold and a little bit of snow! Yikes.

All in all, I really liked Madrid, but I'm not too sure that I'm quite ready to give up my French lifestyle yet!

I have finally solidified my plans for winter break: Disneyland Paris for a day, then flying from there to Prague with my friend Celine, taking the train to Munich, where I'll spend New Years with my German friend Laura. I'm going to stay in Munich for a few days, explore some of the surrounding areas and hopefully take a day trip to Salzburg, Austria...Then I'm meeting up in Stockholm, Sweden with 2 guys from my program from UCSB! I'll be gone from December 27th until January 8th, and I'm super excited!

Have a good Thanksgiving everyone, my day has consisted of 5 hours of classes...Yuck. However a couple of friends are coming over to have dinner so hopefully that will turn out well! I'm very thankful to have avid readers such as yourselves to support me on my journey this year :)

Sunday, November 23, 2008

From Sunny Madrid to...Snowy Lyon?

So I arrived back from Madrid a few hours ago. It was really fun...really tiring, but I can't believe how well I ate all weekend, and for how little! Ok, well I did spend probably about 60-70€ on food, but given it was throughout 3 days and 3 nights, so I think it was pretty reasonable.

BUT! The cool part of the story is kind of 2 opposites. First, it was SUPER warm and BEAUTIFUL in Madrid! Like, 15-16°C, which is in the 50s Fahrenheit...which sounds pretty damn cold, but believe me, it was warm compared to everywhere else in Europe right now! The sun was great.

However, when I returned to Lyon today, the weather forecast said the high was something like 4°C...which is more like high 30s Fahrenheit. Uh oh. We landed in the airport and saw snow on the mountains...Then, when my shuttle arrived in town, I saw SNOWFLAKES flying through the air! Given, they barely made it 10 feet from the ground before they melted and turned into rain droplets, but wow! Is it still like 80°F all over California? Because I'm loving this real winter weather. Although I wish that it would just snow all the way if it's going to be this darn cold.

It sounds like it's raining outside now, and its about 3° outside...Keep in mind that freezing is 0°, which it's actually supposed to reach as a low temp for tomorrow. Wow!! Wish me luck getting to class without freezing my bum off! (if it actually snows, I heard that the buses don't come up to my neighborhood since it's on the other side of a really steep hill...can anyone say SNOW DAY?)

Pictures will come soon!

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Article for the UCSB Daily Nexus

This can also be read at www.dailynexus.com but I pasted to make it easier for you all:

U.S. Politics, the French Way

Katie Hanzlik

Published Tuesday, November 18, 2008

I never imagined that I would watch the results of my first presidential election on my laptop. In the middle of the night. Alone in my apartment… in France.

However, studying in France has given me the unique privilege of witnessing the French reaction to our historic election, which has proved to be quite the experience.

Before I left to study in Lyon, the Education Abroad Program warned me and my fellow EAP-ers that the French would be caught up on their American politics. Upon hearing my accent and learning that I was American, the two Frenchies working at a local shop immediately asked me who was going to win the election, a question I seemed to receive systematically, every time the election came up in conversation, as if I was a political pundit actually qualified to make such a guess. Too bad I don’t know how to translate, “I don’t know. I’m not f***ing psychic!” Both of the Frenchies loved Obama, and they expressed disappointment about the airtime of the first presidential debates: 3 a.m.

But I soon learned that although it was exceedingly amusing to hear French people attempt to pronounce “McCain,” it would be the end of what little respect the French had left for America if he were to be elected.

Whereas we Americans either don’t care to comment on other countries or simply judge them by their movies, celebrities and food, the French see Americans as a reflection of their president. So you can imagine how much they liked George Dubya’s terrorist-chasing, bible-hugging, McDonalds-loving America. After Halloween, I asked a French friend if kids in Lyon trick-or-treated. He said that they used to, but that the practice of most American holidays has been reduced in the past five years. Why? I’ll give you one hint: I doubt that the same people who fervently protested the U.S.-led war in Iraq wanted their children celebrating a holiday created by that same society.

Most French people are up to date on American politics, but their views of both our system and our candidates are rather simplistic. French newspapers described McCain as a continuation of the Bush policy that they so hated and Obama as one last hope that, if he were to be elected, America still had some kind of sense left.

So you can see why roughly 75 percent of French people were rooting for Barack to win on Nov. 4. America is a very strange place to Europeans. California is larger than most European countries… and it’s only one of 50 states. This is why politics itself plays such a huge role in how we are seen by others, since it’s something that Europeans can actually understand and relate to. Unfortunately, our politics — and thus our representation — from the past eight years has concluded with a failed war, a worldwide economic crisis and broken ties with overseas allies. But now that Obama has been elected, the French have hope again that America has learned from its mistakes and truly does want a change, even if it’s just a symbolic one.

Saturday night, on the way back from a club, a French man stopped my German roommate and I in the street. He first asked for a cigarette, but quickly switched to small talk. (Evidently, two blonde girls walking down the street is a little more of a rare and exciting sight in France than it is on Del Playa Drive.) When I revealed that I was American, he went straight to the Obama topic. But now that the election is over, the question changed. He asked if I was happy about the results, and I told him, “Bien sûr, oui! Je suis trop contente!” His semi drunken demeanor suddenly changed and he straightened up a little before he asked, “But will he change the world? He’s only a man.”

I’m not sure, drunken Frenchman… but he is already rebuilding the reputation of America overseas. And that’s enough for me.

Katie Hanzlik is a third-year French and global studies major studying in Lyon, France.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Impulsive Shopping: Study Abroad Edition

So today is a holiday celebrating the Armistice that ended WW1 and since I woke up at 1pm, I've successfully sat on my bed all day doing nothing.

Except create a list of all the countries and cities I want to see this year. And becoming decreasingly depressed at my lack of money and time to see them all, as my stomach grumbled due to a lack of sustenance due to the aforementioned lack of money...and motivation. (The food in my cupboard/fridge at the moment: Enough snack waffles for breakfast, coffee, french fries, salami, cheese, and pasta to last me about 2 days)


So you'd think the reasonable explanation would be to, oh I don't know, search for a babysitting or English teaching gig to get a little bit of extra cash, right?

Wrong. Upon finding a roundtrip flight for less than $100, I subsequently planned a weekend trip to Madrid to see my buddy Michael next weekend instead.

Pourquoi pas? Why not?

Also, I am a dummy. I wanted you all to leave comments but I had it on a registered user only setting! Which is now changed, you can now leave anonymous comments if you'd like...My bad.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Vacances de Toussaints Part 2: The Rest of Dublin + London

Here's the rest of my vacation stories/pics...enjoy :)

Thursday
So when we were on the tour bus on Wednesday, we discovered a few places we wanted to go on Thursday. We decided on Dublinia and Christ Church Cathedral, without knowing anything about either place...However, they ended up being pretty cool. Dublinia was a museum depicting Medieval Dublin (which was called Dublinia...obviously), and it was super interactive (aka it was probably meant for little kids...perfect!). We bought tickets that gave us admission to both the museum and the church next door, Christ Church Cathedral. It was a kind of bizarre church, however I liked it. We also got to go down into the crypt, which was pretty cool!

At that point, it was already halfway through the day and I was flying out at 8pm, so we decided on one last destination, Dun Laoghaire. Pronounced "Dun Leary". Don't ask, I in no way understand Irish/Gaelic pronounciation, haha. Anyway, it was a little village 20 minutes south of Dublin that we decided to visit, since we had basically had enough of Dublin city at that point. So we took the DART (a commuter train sort of thing) to Dun Laoghaire and walked around a bit. It was a lot more quaint and personal, more typical 'Irish village' than Dublin was, which I liked. We walked out to one of the lighthouses on the docks, which proved to be quite a feat, as there must have been like 50 mph wind tunnels at some points in the walk! It was crazy, I had never felt such strong wind before! But it was great being back out on an ocean, even if it was like 8°C the entire time. It got really pretty and sunny (but still cold) just as we made it to the lighthouse.

Afterward, we searched for some kind of café where we could get a hot chocolate because we were dying of cold! But all we could find was a pub (go figure) so we went in and got hot chocolate there. Then it was back to Dublin, where I caught the bus back to the airport and was on my way!

When I got there, I went back to the police station to ask about my Carte de Séjour and cell phone, however no one had found the carte, and I was informed that if I lost my phone in the bus, it would be returned to the Bus Depot in downtown Dublin, not the airport. so i said goodbye to any hopes of finding either thing, and got on my plane toward London Stansted!!

Yes...I went there. Thank you photoshop!

Medieval Dublin's cures for a Toothache and Headache...ha ha

Christ Church Cathedral

Tram ride to Dun Laoghaire

Our treacherous windy walk out to the lighthouse...Me and the ocean reunited at last!

This walk took about 45 minutes against the wind...and 20 minutes on our way back, with the wind at our backs. Haha.

Finally, some clear-ish sky!

Notice my collar and hair...sooo windy!!

Kind of looks like that one row of houses in San Francisco!!

The view in front of the aforementioned houses.

Thursday Night/Friday -- Halloween!
So I found my way from London Stansted Airport to Kings Cross station in London, where my good friend Meghan met me and took me to her building! She lives in a big building for international students where you have to sign in guests and swipe a card in and out...it was quite prison-like, and made me thankful for my independence here in Lyon!

We got back to her room and all her friends were already in there, ready to go out to a club for the night, so I gathered myself and was immediately whisked away onto the bus and out on the town! It was really interesting, Meghan and her friends' abroad experience is a lot different than my own. They aren't doing an immersion program, so they are basically taking a couple of classes at a Study Center, traveling every weekend, and clubbing when they are in London. Not that I'm not thankful for all my experiences and ups and downs here in Lyon, but it seems like they sure are living the life!

Luckily, another friend from UCSB (Jessica) had an extra bed in her room since her roommate was gone for the weekend, so I had a place to sleep while I was there! The next day, Meghan and I woke up and met my friend from Lyon (Robert) at a little café where we got traditional English breakfast. Afterward, we did the quickest tour of the British Museum in history, since we didn't have much time for touristy stuff. So we went through and saw the Rosetta Stone, the frieze of the Parthenon, and the mummy of Cleopatra. After the British Museum, we took the tube down to see Big Ben, Parliament, and Westminster Abbey, then took a walk through a park (the name of which escapes me, I don't think it had a name) to Buckingham Palace, where there were unfortunately no beefeaters!!! (Picture idea failure number 1)

So after a fantastic lunch at a burrito place (Yummm), we went to see 007: Quantum of Solace, since it was already out, and why not? We were in London! It was pretty good, but I've gotta say, I never fully understand whats going on in action movies like that. Afterwards, we went to a couple of stores to put together our Halloween costumes...Meghan, her friend Bridget, and I decided to be Dead Lifeguards :)

Me and Meghan upon arrival in her room! No one ever told me what was inside those famous London telephone booths... I saw a bunch of these in Edinburgh as well, but I had to wait until I saw the real thing in London to take a pic! Westminster Abbey..too bad it was too expensive to go inside :(
Me and Ben/Parliament!

Phonebooth + Big Ben = Most LONDON picture ever!Me and Buckingham Palace. Don't let the smile fool you...I wanted a picture with a Beef Eater!!
Chillin with James
Scary dead lifeguards!
Me, who ran on the pool deck, Meghan, who swam without waiting 20 minutes after eating, and Bridget, our make up expert of the night who died of Shark Bite.
We found a Jesus to heal my wound!!!

Saturday
After catching up on some well-needed sleep, we got up and got ready to see the Chelsea-Sunderland match!!! I was really excited, even though I don't follow Chelsea football, because I knew it was a big deal that we got tickets. And it was really fun! Meghan's friend Simone's English boyfriend brought us all jerseys to wear and we trekked out to Stamford Bridge, decked out and ready to go...Unfortunately, we looked a little silly being dressed in tons of Chelsea garb and not being able to sing along with the songs all the hardcore fans were singing...because 1. we didn't know the words and 2. we couldn't really understand what they were saying anyway!

Either way, it was super fun! Chelsea won 5-0, so it was a good game. It was rainy, but luckily we didn't have to deal with that until we left the game...and had to walk 30 minutes to the next Underground station, because there was a "Customer Incident" at the Stamford Bridge station...which we took to mean that there was an accident involving a body on the tracks. Yikes.

After getting home and warming up, we (me, Meghan, Bridget, and her friend Meg, who was visiting from Bordeaux) went out to an area of town locally known for its great Indian food, and we had a SUPER amazing meal. Again, after this trip I have found a new love for Indian food! Thank youuuu British colonialism! After the big (and expensive) meal, we went to a little bar and hung out for a while to kill time, because Meg was flying out early the next morning and had to leave at 3am anyway. We met some interesting guys, one of which claimed that he was a biscuit (cookie) designer, and wore a "spatial" watch...Then, we met a couple of others on the bus ride home who were, like all Europeans, very interested in the election and our opinions on it.




Simone, Meghan, and me...and our awesome seats!! Well worth the 45£!

Awesome action shot...the Blue is not only saving the ball from going out of bounds, but also slidetackling the opponent, and splashing muddy rain water in his face! SCORE!

Sunday
Woke up about 3 hours after coming home and headed to the Tube to catch a train back to Stansted Airport. I saw Robert there, also on his way back to Lyon (but he was smart and bought a direct flight) and we discussed our Halloweens. Then, I flew to Grenoble (which is BEAUTIFUL, I can't wait until we get to go there for Thanksgiving with EAP!), slept through my 45 minute shuttle (a true testimate to how sleepy I was...I never sleep in vehicles!) to the Grenoble train station and took the 1.5 hour train back to Part Dieu, from which it takes about an hour to get back to my place.

And yet, after all of the cold, rain, 3-4 hour nights of sleep, and public transport, I have managed to stay healthy and not get sick upon my first week back in Lyon! (Knock on wood...)

All and all, it was a really good trip. I am, however, happy to be back in Lyon, which feels more and more like home each time I leave and come back.